Description

91 – 93 Points, Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate, 30th Dec 2016

The 2015 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has an uncharacteristically reserved bouquet, although there is plenty of blackberry and blueberry fruit tied up here, hints of fresh dates and fig. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, though there is a very good structure here. What it is just missing is the sophistication and nuance of the Chambolle Amoureuses on the finish that does not quite deliver the same persistence. Perhaps this is holding something back for the future?

“Whilst waiting for proprietor Patrick Landanger to guide me through his 2015s, I chatted to his two parrots that preside over the courtyard to see if they could give me insight into the vintage. It is a beautifully property overlooking its own monopoles and the vineyards of Volnay. Patrick told me that he used 30% new oak for all premier and grand crus, though was a bit vague when it came to the date of harvest. Let?s leave it as ?beginning of September?. The style of La Pousse d?Or is one of fruit concentration and opulence, the fruit profile erring more towards black than red. It is not to everyone?s taste whilst others adore it. My own personal feeling is that the warmth of the 2015 growing season accentuated the power and intensity that at times overwhelmed the terroir expression and nuance, whereas cooler vintages such as 2014 regulated it. This explains why on several occasions I have a preference for that vintage over the 2015. Still, there are some exceptionally fine wines including a gorgeous Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses that outwitted the Bonnes-Mares and a great Corton-Bressandes.”